A five-minute lap around the block tells you almost nothing. A proper test drive takes at least twenty minutes and covers different types of road. Use this list.
Start it cold
Ask the seller not to warm the car up before you arrive. A cold start reveals smoke, rattles, rough idle and hard-starting issues that vanish once the engine is hot. If you turn up and the bonnet is already warm, be curious about why.
Look before you drive
Check the tyres for even wear and matching brands. Look for mismatched paint, uneven panel gaps and overspray, which suggest past repairs. Open the boot and lift the floor — check the spare and look for signs of water. Sniff the cabin: a damp or mouldy smell often means a leak.
On the road
Brakes. Find a safe empty stretch and brake firmly. The car should stop straight without pulling, shuddering or squealing.
Steering. Hands relaxed on a flat road — the car should track straight. Vibration through the wheel at speed usually means balance or suspension issues.
Transmission. An automatic should change smoothly without flaring or clunking. In a manual, check the clutch bite point is not right at the top of the pedal, and that it does not slip under load.
Suspension. Drive over a rough road with the radio off and windows down. Listen for clunks, knocks and rattles.
Highway. Get it up to 100 km/h. Many faults only appear at speed.
Sit still and test everything
Air conditioning blowing genuinely cold, heater, all windows, mirrors, central locking, indicators, headlights and high beam, wipers and washers, horn, reversing camera and sensors, infotainment, and every warning light. A dash light that stays on after start-up is a negotiation point at best.
Test it as your car
Park it yourself, including reversing into a bay. Fit the child seat if you have one. Put the pram or the golf clubs in the boot. Check it fits in your garage. A car that is wonderful to drive but impossible to park where you live is the wrong car.